But times change, especially in the fall, when frost threatens to dispatch the tomato of any persuasion left hanging on the vine. These days counselors speak of multiple intelligences — not just keen math skills, but empathy, intuition and — I would hope — style.
Given a chance, the green tomato steps up. The fruit has a firm bite and something of the wild, spicy flavor that wafts from the plant's prickly looking stems.
It's starchy out of hand, but its thick flesh helps it hold up under heat. When soothed in a milk bath, spiked with cayenne, crumb-coated and pan-fried, the green tomato comes back with snappy, refreshing crunch.
Which isn't better than the gushingly ripe tomato. It's simply that delicious quality we've all learned to value: different.
Green tomatoes
Salt
Milk
Flour
Egg, lightly beaten
Panko or other fine white breadcrumbs
Cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil
Prep:
Slice tomatoes into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Season with salt.
Dip:
Set milk, flour, egg and panko out on separate plates. Season flour with a little salt and panko with a pinch of cayenne. Dip each tomato first in milk, then flour, egg and finally panko.
Fry:
Coat a heavy skillet with oil. Heat over medium-high heat. Fry tomatoes golden, 2-3 minutes per side. Enjoy with aioli or tucked into a rockin' BLT.
Leah Eskin is a Tribune special contributor. Contact her at leahreskin@aol.com
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