Mix:
Stir together zabaglione (recipe below) and pastry cream (below) in a bowl. Fold in whipped cream (below). Fold in mascarpone. Chill.

Layer:
Arrange 12 ladyfingers in a single layer in a 9-by-9-inch pan. Mix espresso, brandy and sugar in a bowl. Brush ladyfingers with half espresso mixture. Smooth on half the cream. Arrange a second layer of 12 ladyfingers. Brush with remaining espresso. Smooth on remaining cream. Dust with cocoa powder. Cover tightly and chill 1-3 days.

Zabaglione:
Measure 5 egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup sweet Marsala into a bowl. Swirl smooth with an immersion blender. Pour into the top of a double boiler set over medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until hot and thickened, 5 minutes. Pour into a clean bowl. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla. Cool, cover and chill overnight.

Pastry cream:
Measure 1/2 cup sugar, 1/3 cup flour zest of 1 lemon, 3 egg yolks and 1 cup milk into a heavy-bottom saucepan. Swirl smooth with an immersion blender. Set over low heat. Cook, whisking constantly, adding 1 cup milk, a little at a time, until thick and smooth, 10 minutes. Pour into a bowl. Stir in 1 teaspoon vanilla. Cool, cover and chill overnight.

Whipped cream:
Whip 2 cups whipping cream, 1/4 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla to sturdy peaks. Chill.

Provenance:
Adapted from David Rosengarten of DavidRosengarten.com. He adapted the recipe from unsung but likely historic Baltimore baker Carminantonio Iannaccone.

Leah Eskin is a Tribune special contributor. Contact her at leahreskin@aol.com